Fashion highlights from London, Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks
From avant-garde to ready-to-wear, London’s menswear scene proved to be a nest of homegrown talent. After the last shows, it’s clear that the British capital is currently fashion’s place to be. The men’s schedule delivered some names to which we must keep an eye on. Houssein Chalayan stands out amongst the surprises.
Usually labelled as conceptual creator, Chalayan has been downgraded to the niche of cultivated fashion and art lovers. That’s not bad but it may become a problem considering that it’s a rather small niche. An exceptional designer with strong talent and strong narrative skills, Chalayan definitely deserves more attention. His FW19 collection is emblematic of how streetwear should be approached. By taking the best of two worlds (the hoodie one and the sartorial one) the designer offers the balance men’s fashion needs. His work interpretation of the trend clearly shows his signature – a fine blend of creativity and extremely wearable pieces that balances sport items, button-down shirts and a very interesting color palette.
While London had a few surprises, the same can’t be said about Milan. The Fashion Week was not bad, just a little predictable. As usual, Prada and Pal Zileri are spot on, N.21 is as cool as ever, MSGM keeps the market happy and Armani was missed for sure. If we have to talk about one specific brand that stood out, that one must be Dolce & Gabbana.
The Italian label’s show was an ode to tailoring, elegance and luxury. An incredible display of velvet jacquards and brocade which paid tribute to the Sicilian aristocracy, while colored sequins pointed at future plans and the suiting honored the Italian sartorial tradition. By adopting the old-school show format, setting an atelier in the background and bringing awesome pieces, Dolce & Gabbana prove that the Italians just have style in their blood and if there’s one thing Italy can teach the world, that thing is elegance.
Paris has brought the usual glamour and buzz. Valentino is always Valentino, Undercover has probably delivered its best collection ever. But what we found really interesting is Acne Studios. The Swedish brand has always managed to mix tailoring and casual cool, but this season the concept behind the collection was even more interesting. Jonny Johasson, creative director of the maison, said “I wanted to imagine our own counter-cultures which then morph together, with their own ways of living and surviving”. The result is a great gathering of academics, anarchists, bohemians and pioneers, focusing on identity with a style that manages to be both practical and romantic.